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1月12日

Mt. Pilatus, or, The End of The Potting Shed

It's been a while since I've been here.  Time and life and love, sore and compelling, froze me in my own tracks and rendered me speechless.  I have thought often in the past few months of closing this down, unsure if I had anything left I wanted to say.  But there's plenty I want to say.  There are always runaway thoughts in my head, and observations and things I find beautiful, and contentious, and foolish, and brave, and I want to note them.   I had thought I had lost the capacity for saudades, but this week I brought a chapter of my writing to a close and opened a new one.  It's time to close down something I loved because though I still love it, I feel keenly that it's time for something else. 
 
I am in no small way surprised that I can do this.  Too often when you get used to one way of writing you stick with it because it is safe, or formulaic, or you get blinded by the praise of people who like it and look forward to the next same ole, same ole. 
 
I've run out of same ole.  And don't want to retread past writings.  Writers in syndication have nothing left to say.
 
Below is my last gardening column for the Brussels Embassy Newsletter.  It's been three years writing this and it's time to move on.  And maybe that will inspire more here. 
 

I spent Boxing Day in a hotel, a Christmas gift from my cousin, over 2000 metres atop Mt. Pilatus above Luzern in Switzerland.  After an afternoon in a museum of Picasso and Klee, we travelled up the mountain by cabled gondola for almost an hour over children tobogganing below.  We munched on toasted chestnuts, chucking the shells out a small transom window for the scavengers of the night.  We bobbed to the top to skies that could only end with the curvature of the earth.  Blackbirds that never leave the heights of this mountain scavenged on winter lichen frozen into the sleeping granite.  

It was as if you were free of your cramped window seat on a plane in stacked descent, and could sit on the wing.  That afternoon, the skies were as clear as the eyes of a newborn.  The lakes around Luzern were deep and blue; you could see how the city played itself into the contours of the land it had settled in.  Come nightfall, I had hoped for stars, but the lights of the top of the mountain were too strong.  But even then, there was the sense of cold, and darkness, and the wonder of how those who came before us lived in a world lit only by moonlight on snowfields.  When candles and glass in thin windows were the purview of the wealthy.  When, in the age of my grandmother, the lights of stringed pearls along the lakes below did not exist.  The landscape was covered in jewels, and I could stand in the frozen night, not being master of all I surveyed, but wonderfully grateful and humbled at the gift that had been given me.  A sumptuous dinner of excellent company and good wine fed the enchantment of this place.  Plans were laid to see it in summer.

At the deepest hour of that night, I ventured outside to a temperature of -6C.  I was wrapped well and looking for stars in the thin atmosphere.  Content to be solitary in the frozen night a few thousand metres closer to starlight far more ancient than the lights below.  There was peace and stillness and unforgiving cold.

Or so I thought.

 Within days I was on a train back to Brussels.   And a few days after that my garden was buried in snow and a cold doubly harsh to my mountain top.  The earth froze and the snow lay old and brittle on the ground, Miss Haversham’s wedding cake left to dust and grime and the cold of age.  Venturing outside was painful and for a few short winter days I thought I’d never be warm again and longed for the first sunburn of summer.

But this is the stuff of the seasons and seasons will change and the earth moves on.  This is the last chapter of The Potting Shed.   All that needed to be said has been said; it’s time to say something different, casting a new light through other windows.  In a few weeks this space will carry a new column, tentatively called “Blogging Brussels”, observations of life in Belgium generally, Brussels in particular.

I’ve been pleased and humbled that there have been those who have enjoyed these scribblings.  You validate me as a writer and I hope I have been of help as a gardener.  Kathleen has the corner on cooking, my other passion. I will sit on another corner, watch Brussels go by, and write about that.

I wish you all the greenest of thumbs and the joy of watching good things grow.  Back soon. 

 

5月27日

Washing Your Hair in the Rain

Normally of an evening I like to sit out in the garden with a glass of something and the crossword, the windows open to a jazz radio station I enjoy, and my goofy dog chasing his favourite ball back and forth and barking at the goats.  The bird feeder is as crowded as a truck-stop with beautiful green finches that bully even the pigeons to scrape fallen seeds on the ground.  It is my favourite time of the day, what my mother used to call ‘goat-time’, but that is a story from another time and on a different island.  I have the goats, but not the frangipani and hibiscus blossoms of that summer, but as I stood in the kitchen doorway this evening watching the rain come down, memory took a detour and I smiled to remember another island and another garden, this one in Southeast Asia.  This garden had no goats, but it had hibiscus bushes, orchids and humming birds, but best of all, at the end of our lawn, we had a swamp.

Then, as now, we’d sit out after work with a cold glass of something, leaving the air-conditioning to the sit in the evening breeze.  Beyond the lawn, the swamp was lush with reeds and water lilies and further still, there stood the forest that lined a distant river.  At dusk, which falls with a certainty only found in the tropics, monkeys would howl and screech, chasing one another in the trees and if we were lucky, monitor lizards, some two metres long, would haul themselves out of the water to monitor the lawn below us, perhaps waiting for the neighbour’s cat to make a careless pass.  Occasionally our Chinese landlord would let his gardener come with a sharpened machete to chase after these beasts which, I was told, made for an excellent meal.  Thankfully my companion at the time was an excellent Italian cook, and monitor lizard does not taste like chicken.

But when the rains came, hard and thunderous, any willing friends that were around would don a huge old t-shirt kept for the purpose, a chair would be placed in the grass, and they were given the sublime treat of having their hair washed in the rain.  The rain came down like a warm water shower and a bucket was kept at hand in case it let up, but there is nothing so wonderfully refreshing as having ones hair washed in a rainstorm and that, followed by a gin and tonic, a meal we all cooked together and an evening of cards, made for a perfect Saturday by the South China Sea.

Over the years that followed, many of us left the tropics, promised as you do to keep in touch, meant it, and then didn’t.  Changes in life led some of us down roads we never expected and for some of us, our hair-washing days are gone for good anyway.  But for the time of our time, in that garden by the swamp, we treasured the food, the love and each other, knowing perhaps that it could never last, and so was prized in its impermanence. 

Until it’s celebrated again years later, in a kitchen doorway leading to a garden under the rains of Flanders.

4月20日

Forget-Me-Nots

Sam and Alice accepted me into their family without hesitation and without reservation, and such love is rare.  My wife had been a childhood playmate of their daughter, Adele, almost thirty years of history and affection was mine by default. I never felt I truly deserved this, but theirs was a nature that held that family extended far beyond the bounds of biology, and they had the hearts and the open arms to accommodate as many as came to their home and sat at their table. 

I shared in their history, just as the countless exchange students they hosted over the years did, and when their own children spent their own time in foreign lands, so too were those families drawn to the front porch with an open door in a leafy suburb of Baltimore.  They immediately understood my chaotic parentage and when I offered to make them the Brasilian national dish of feijoada, they jumped at it, they had been there before, an exchange student had brought them to it.

Sam played trumpet voluntaries at our wedding, I served a formal table with Keith, another exchange student/adopted son at their 35th

wedding anniversary dinner, they shared the joy of the birth of our children, and one of my abiding memories of Sam will be the motley group of extended friends, family and children that caroled the street at Christmas-tide, Sam playing carols on his trumpet as we stopped at each house with a light in the window.  My own children took to calling him Grandpa Sam, and when my elder son took up the trumpet, and asked one summer to play Sam’s, he beamed with pride and joy. 

Sam’s memory began to fade in recent years, slowly at first, but this disease is as relentless as a glacier.  The family has worked to keep him active and vital, and that has helped, but I, who am a sporadic visitor, need to remind him who I am.  And so, one spring, in a garden now long gone, I planted forget-me-nots for Sam.  I told Alice, because I knew she would be pleased.  And she was. I have since given up that garden and have begun another.  And with the passing of my father and the loss of another beloved garden, the forget-me-nots were left behind.  But unlike memory, forget-me-nots are sturdy and spread, and one evening last weekend, lamenting the weeds I needed the time to tackle,  I noticed among them the familiar blue and pink of forget-me-nots that had somehow crept their way among the tulips.  I thought of Sam, and was grateful.

Because unlike memory, gardens revive, year after year.  My garden has always been a haven of memory of people I have loved and have gone and in that it is alive with them.  It renews itself and at the same time grows in the tracks of what came before. 

But that is what gardens should be: an inviting haven for those you love.        

  DSCF0029      DSCF0030

Like Sam and Alice’s front porch.

10月1日

Anyone's Children

Arrived home a few hours ago from another long drive from London, my little Polo screaming in second gear from all the loot I was hauling from what was left of my father’s house. It is almost empty, the house, and must be completely so by the end of the month. Piles have been made of what his friends and neighbours may come to take, what’s going to increasingly choosy charity shops, and what we’ll take to the a tip my sister knows where what is still worthwhile can be sold on. There’s next to nothing we want to make money on; his computer desk and an electric easy chair he never mastered, it was too late.

Both have been sold.

Dad lived simply in his last years but even so there was so much he kept, some things we didn’t even know about. A rolled up and very brittle canvas that, gingerly unfolding a few inches, we discovered was a portrait of my 5x-great-grandfather painted 200 years ago. A large portfolio of all Dad’s artwork (he had a curious predilection for still-life with boots), Mother’s costume jewelry and, lovingly, one of her nightgowns and a pair of her panties. There was a cheap plastic ring amongst her jewelry that my brother, at the age of six, found in a bag of crisps in Venice, which he used to marry Mum at St. Mark’s Cathedral.

There are endless files of family history, anything and everything of interest Dad discovered he printed, annotated, cross-referenced and filed. I am now the slovenly inadequate keeper of the history and it will take me a good year to go through his files. My brother and sister left to me the trust of all the old photographs but I despair of finding anyone in the family still alive who will know who the smiling girl is with her head lying on my grandmother’s shoulder when they were both young; a life privileged on a far-away continent between two wars that would cost more than that photograph could ever suspect.

The lamps that stood in my parent’s living room, my Mother’s Delft, her meat hammer, Dad’s press clippings, none of that belongs here. To have it here is a declaration that the family is over. We are no longer Mum, Dad, and my brother and sister and I. That family is gone. We still have each other, my bro, my sister and me; but we are a different dynamic, we three. We are orphans in middle age and have to build something other, something that will include the now of us and declare it family. We are no longer somebody’s children. There is no home anymore that binds we three. There are memories, and loyalties and things that represent a shared history. But now we face each other, all that is left of a family that doesn’t exist any more and what we build from that, what we have, is what we cherished in one another as siblings, as adults, as people.

Because the lamps in my living room mean that we are no longer anyone’s children.

7月25日

2nd July, St. Helen's Church, Wheathampstead

Why should it be that, of a night of rain, and whiskey, with grief tickling the back of my throat, why should it be so hard to find words for you, when words have always belonged to me to master their artifice, but were never really yours. You who spoke so well without them, and left your footprints all over our lives and those of so many with only acts of quiet kindness and grace?

You loved in unfolding ways, a fathering of expectations but of watchfulness, of waiting for us to step into the sun, teaching us to look into the light. No, more than that. Nothing with you was ever simple.

We couldn’t understand what you gave up until we were grown because it takes understanding that you did it in silence to bring home the pain, the bravery, the grief and the love you lived with and never spoke of.

It takes adult years and grief and loss and uncommon wisdom to understand the sacrifice of the children you were forced to give up and the children you took to your willing heart for the love of a difficult and extraordinary woman. It takes adult years to understand the life you set to the compass of dignity, the honour in hard work, the denial of self in the service of others, the calm and strength that can only come from being steadfast to one’s integrity. And a sense of humour made all the more wicked by the rarity with which you fired it over our bows.

You are the last of the Titans, on whose shoulders our world was built. Now you are gone, and you take the roof of that world with you.

Why? I asked her long ago, curled up on her lap, why did you marry him? This man who had supplanted me in her heart. He’s a good man, she said. The battle was drawn then, and it would rage for years, but it ended with two men who loved one woman ending up loving one another. I, for the gift that he was, and he, for the gift he grew to know. I fought long and hard to love you. In the end, we both won.

 In the end, what you have left me, is a compass of dignity, the honour of hard work, the denial of self in the service of others, and the calm and strength that can only come from being steadfast to one’s integrity. That love is not always found in silence, but that some things are worth fighting long and hard for. As we did for each other. I honour you if I can pass this to my sons. As you did to yours. I am the son of that difficult and extraordinary woman, the one who said we are butterflies who must fly free. And, after a long and hard fought battle, I am, and always will be, yours.

  

6月25日

Hours, No More Than Days

Hours, she said, no more than days. He is agitated, they said, his mind halfway aboard the ship he longs to sail, and unsure of why he is still here. On a distant shore, they gather to bring him to their own. The longing to go woke him up a few nights past and told him it was time for a walk, told his useless emaciated legs to heave themselves over the bedrail and walk out. But it wasn’t time. It wasn’t yet time.

Now, Voyager, sail thou forth to seek and find.

He woke up, in the longest of an English summer afternoon, and dictated his obituary, reminded my brother of where all the papers were, to call the doctor to make sure the certificate was filled out, prepare the churchyard.

But Dad, they said, you’re not dead yet.

Damn, he said.

He is sedated now, calm as his body shuts down, organ by limb.  The peace to let his mind let go.

Hours, no more than days.

He lies in his bed in his last living room, not upstairs in the bed Mother died in, where he wanted to be. Where he missed her for so long and at night held the pillow he kept on her side of the bed.

I don’t know what she ever saw in me, he once said.

Stock options, Daddy, I said then. But I knew that he knew, because I told him, that he was the best gift she ever gave us.

Why? I asked her long ago, curled up on her lap, why did you marry him? This man who had supplanted me in her heart. He’s a good man, she said. The battle was drawn then, and it would rage for years, but it ended with two men who loved one woman ending up loving one another. I, for the care he took, and he, for the gift I grew to know. I fought long and hard to love him. They say girls want to marry a man like their father. Sometimes sons do too.

He is the last of the Titans, on whose shoulders our world was built. When he is gone, he takes the roof of that world with him.

Hours, no more than days.

Last Tuesday, running out his door, a long drive home, coming back moments later because I’d forgotten my wallet.

It wouldn’t be you if you didn’t forget something, he said

I know, Daddy, I know, I said

With the echo of the door latch, I thought I heard, goodbye Brian.

Goodbye, Daddy.

Hours, no more than days.

3月5日

Lembranças do Jardim Tropical

Memory is a cruel mistress, she teases and entwines your stories into her web of half fictions and leaves you to doubt, to second guess your own life. But she cannot touch you when you are six years old and my memories of Rio that summer are still strong because I can still taste them.

I remember that first morning waking up to the sound of the wind coming off the South Atlantic because my mother had thrown open all the windows to her childhood on the beaches, and was letting the sea breeze and salt air do what memory could not. I can taste the banana I picked off the breakfast tray because it was the only fruit I recognized, and its taste was fresh and sweet like a banana has never tasted since. I remember the first taste of mango and papaya and goiabada on a croissant, and I know these are real because they still taste of salt air and the breakers crashing on the beach at Ipanema.

I remember the mosaic sidewalks along the beach and the smell of diesel buses, and vanilla ladyfinger biscuits in the trifle my aunt made to go with the churrasco my uncle grilled, when all the family gathered in Caxias do Sul for the first time in years. The family that were left in Brazil, and we amongst the diaspora.

But mostly I remember a small house tucked into the hills towards Gavea, the house of my great aunt Jeni. She was the widow of my grandmother’s only brother and she continued in that house long after he died, so young, taken by melanoma, the lingering kiss Brazil leaves on her English children. Even then, Rio was encroaching on a house built originally in the forest, but Jeni’s garden was lush and vibrant and full of things a boy had never seen. Banana trees heavy with fruit, birds of paradise, bougainvillea in colors Disney couldn’t imagine, orchids in clumps in the trees, a garden damp and sweet of air and washed fresh with late morning rain. There were birds I’d never seen making sounds I’d never heard and even in this tropical cacophony of sound and light and color, there were English roses, a delicate and noble stand in the carnival of a Brazilian garden. Like the tea Aunt Jeni had laid for us, they stood their ground as the permanent stamp the English had left in Rio de Janeiro.

I have not been back to Rio in many years, though my father returned last year and still found footprints of his childhood, seventy years on. Rio has crept over our family homes, and our family graves and much of what we left has been swallowed in the tides of favelas or washed down the mountains with the rains, like the graves of my grandparents. But Jeni is still there, old and infirm but alive, the last of her generation. She still lives in house where Uncle John died half a century ago, and though it is surrounded now by the city, the bananas still bear fruit, the colours of the bougainvillea still call back to the parrots in the trees where orchids nestle, and there are still English roses thriving in a garden in the hills above the South Atlantic.

11月6日

Dom João

My Uncle Johnny was the closest thing I ever had to a grandfather, my mother’s father having died before I was born and my father’s father left little memory, living but his last few years in São Paulo. Johnny was my great uncle, married to my father’s aunt, but as is the case with autumn crocuses from second marriages, he and my Aunt Jessica were young enough to be the only matched set of surrogate grandparents I knew.

They came to me relatively late in a boy’s life. We had travelled Switzerland for Christmas and I remember being very shy and bored of this old couple and the stories they would share round the dinner table with my parents of extended family in Brazil, a country I only knew vaguely, and names I knew not at all until years later when I put the family tree together and they all made sense. Little makes sense to a twelve-year-old boy except that the snow was wonderful that year and that Zeus the dog was a nervous, snippy beast of a Dalmatian, and I had a great pair of boots that clacked noisily on tile floors and there was no television.

Unbeknownst to me at twelve, I had fallen in love with this country and that house that, over the years, was to become to me like a second home, a safe haven, the seeds of that largely planted by my uncle.

He was very Swiss, except when he very wasn’t. Orderly in household and business affairs, reserved but with a schoolboy’s sense of humour and a love of puns; dignified but for a naughty twinkle in his eyes under the disapproving gaze of his very English wife. He was tall and charming and when he went into town with his beige overcoat and a beret parked on the side of his head, I marvelled that I was related to such a distinguished creature. His English was punctuated with Portuguese and often produced a bewilderment of phrase: ‘Puxavida! Thees is no keeding!’

Johnny came from a well-to-do Zürich family that had provided burgomeisters and other nabobs over the centuries. His sisters were contemporaries/students of Jung, and it was expected in the family to be successful. Like his father, who went into Japan to open trade links after Perry’s gunboats, he followed the family tradition of going abroad for business. In his case, it was as a procurer of raw materials for perfume houses. This took him to Brazil as a young man, where he stayed most of his adult life, married my Aunt, raised two children, then chose to retire to his home, moving to the warmer Ticino as a concession to my Brazilian born, but very English Aunt.

The next time I saw them I was 17, with all the ripeness and itch of the boy/man. We had gone back as a last family holiday before my sister went off to university in England, and we left her with Johnny and Jessica to put her on the road to Liverpool. It was summer and there were picnics on the Lago Maggiore, the requisite stomach-churning drives up the Centovalli, lunches in obscure auberges I would come to love in later years, and the view from my uncle’s terrace across the lake to the Gambarogno.

I can’t now remember if it was that time or later visits when I was alone in the house with him. It was summer. The living room and dining room was a broad expanse fronted by a wall that was two thirds glass overlooking my aunt’s roses down to the lake and across to the mountains on the other side, the Gambarogno. A storm was passing over the lake and clouds crowded the lake and the mountain tops, and stretched languorously down the lake into Italy. There was lightening, and the rain was heavy and Johnny had put on a recording of Smetana’s Die Moldau.

The rains had swollen the rivers down the mountain, and we stood together at the window watching the storm, not a word passing between us. In that time though, he came to pass to me the music and the mountain; I came to love him. After all these years, his garden is still fertile from the cigar ends he flung there and to this day, a lit cigar takes me back to that storm and that window.

I came back over the years, many times as a retreat, and learned to listen at the dining table at the names and the stories I would later come to piece together as a family history. Through its torturous switchbacks, I discovered a single story of two families, my mother’s and my father’s that began almost a century before. Johnny and Jessica were its archivists and added to it were memories of school friends gathering there one Easter and Aunt Jessica flinging twenty franc notes out her window at us as we went out for beer at the Montanina.

I didn’t see the beginnings of the devastation Alzheimer’s Disease was to wreak on the mind of this man I so loved. Walking into a room and finding no reason for being there; forgetting where he parked the car in town. The frustration of knowing his mind was going, his car taken away; I heard of these things over the phone or through letters as I was far away, being twenty-something with the distance that provides, the lack of care that only youth can excuse.

I was home in England one year. He was already beyond the care of my Aunt and their daughter and had been put in a hospice across the lake, in the shadow of the Gambaragno. I travelled over to see my Aunt, and to see him. His brother-in-law, my Uncle Albert, drove me to the other side of the lake.

He won’t know you. He knows me because I see him often. He doesn’t remember Jessica, and asks for his daughter, thinking she’s a little girl. They told us early on to keep jogging his memory, but he’s past that now. He’s otherwise perfectly normal, he just has no idea who or where he is. But he’s happy.

As we walked into his room, he greeted Albert with a smile as if he were the milkman he saw every day but gave a friendly dismissal to. For my sake, Albert spoke to Johnny in English, trying to jog his memory about his wife and daughter. Johnny turned to me and smiled.

Hello, who are you?

I answered him in Portuguese: ‘I’m Brian, Peggy’s boy.’

But you can’t be, Peggy is a little girl.

I answered him in German: ‘Mummy sends her love.’

He smiled, and turned back to Albert. For the next half-hour, he switched back and forth with ease between German, English and Portuguese, but he no longer remembered he had a wife, and my mother was a six-year-old, bouncing on his knee.

The evil of Alzheimer’s is that you know what is happening while it is happening. You know there is a corrosion in your brain turning it to sponge, and you know it will kill you. But it is not the inevitability of death that is the worst. It is the obliteration of the past; dreams and memories, love and people, words and music, rather as if a malignant hand has a finger on delete, and the narrative of your life begins to disappear, first slowly so you don’t notice, then faster so you do, and the agony of certainty that entails. In the end though, the story that was a vibrant man is wiped clean, and what is left of the sponge retreats to blissful vacuity. Having nothing left to remember, there is no past to regret, no future to fear. I thought I had come that day to say goodbye to Johnny. But Johnny had already gone, and this pleasant but vacuous man was not someone I knew. I had been spared the deletion and could keep the memory.

He died two years later, and Aunt Jessica held on four years more. Johnny was cremated and interred in a wall in the cemetery down in the town. Jessica did not want to be cremated and so Johnny’s urn had to be removed from the wall prior to her coffin being interred with him. I wept for her in a foreign land but couldn’t go to her funeral. But I heard this from their daughter, my cousin Patsy, of a conversation between our friends.

Johnny’s urn taken from the grave and put to the side.

Peter:

‘What’s that?

Elisabeth

: ‘Shhhh, Peter, that’s Johnny!’

Peter:

Ah. I didn’t recognise him.’

Patsy:

Stifles a laugh

So Swiss. Johnny would have smiled, said, ‘Puxavida! Thees is no keeding!’ and lit a cigar.

8月11日

Roses and Saudades

Mother died eight years ago today, and all I can think of is, when Dad sold the house a year later, the new owners tore out her rose bushes.  Who would tear out rose bushes?  They were a glory.  I don't or can't remember much about that week:  I made most of the phone calls for Dad, my salty old macho uncle  cried, we buried her with flowers from her garden, I wondered if we buried her with her teeth, her eulogy was the easiest thing I ever wrote, I didn't cry.
 
Today, I can only think of the ripped-out roses.
 
And
 
The books I can't pass on
 
And
 
The piece of music I found she'd really like
 
And
 
'You're a son of a bitch, Brian.'  'Yes, Mum.'
 
And
 
'I'll put the kettle on, old bean, it's your deal.'
 
And
 
'You've dealt me a hand like a foot.'
 
And
 
'Nossa Senhora!'
 
And
 
'Morning, another country is heard from!'
 
And
 
Her fried chicken, which none of us have been able to re-create
 
And
 
I have the pan she used to make it in
 
And
 
That she could swear like a sailor in three languages
 
And
 
Then charm the snakes out of the trees
 
And
 
She could be a pain in the arse
 
And
 
She was so much fun
 
And
 
I remembered the fun today, and wept.